The brand A-Cold-Wall* should be on top of your list when looking for semi-extravagant but wearable upper-class streetwear. When talking with international fashion and retail experts, there are always three keywords that are being used when describing the unique look of ACW.
1. Workwear 2. Techno-materials 3. Deconstruction
The brand’s design DNA has elements of British working-class uniforms and the UK’s traditional bespoke tailoring with punctual injections of international aesthetics and modern art. If you don’t know A-Cold-Wall* but want to get a quick visual stimulation, take a quick look and scroll through their growing Instagram profile.
Samuel Ross is a young London-based designer that founded A-Cold-Wall* in 2015 at the age of 23. The same year “Je suis Charlie” became a slogan for the freedom of self-expression, same-sex marriage has ruled to a legal right in the USA, and when 195 countries signed the Paris Climate Accord, to reduce its emissions of heat-trapping gases.
Some say the look&feel of ACW has similarities to the Italian luxury fashion brand Off-White. Some may disagree but the fact is that Samuel was Virgil Abloh’s assistant and until today Mr. Ross holds the position of Art direction & Design consultant at Off-White.
A-Cold-Wall* is also known for the multiple successful collaborations with Converse, Nike and other international brands. ACW designs also very unique products such as the heavy duty hood made out of Gore-Tex which makes it very versatile in its utility.
The unique textiles that Samuel selects for his creations reflect the textures of the environment in which he grew up. The inspirations are gray pebble and brick walls, dull weight, and colors that fit into smoothly. I am sure we all agree that the garments are not meant to look like a dark cold wall of a metropolitan street where no one wants to be at night. So what is the name all about? 2016 Samuel Ross described the meaning of ACW during an interview with Dazed Digital:
Our entire society is based on walls, that slightly unpleasant feeling of rubbing your hand against a wall, that barrier, is a feeling everybody knows. It’s something that resonates with people from different places, a kid on a council estate can rub their hand against a cold pebbledash wall, and a kid from a mansion can rub his hand against the cold marble.QUOTE FROM DAZED
When you stop reading now, you think ACW is a young, successful, modern, and well-known streetwear brand. But I am sorry there is more to discover. Samual decided to position himself and the brand into a different market segment starting AW20. This year A-COLD-WALL* will attend the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy. This means the brand is now entering the luxury market side by side with Prada, Missoni, N°21 and DSquared2 and all the other brands you can find in via Monte Napoleone or via Della Spiga in Milan.
Without a doubt, this is a big step for the brand and time will tell if this was the right move. We will keep an eye on the Samuel, the brand, and the market. This won’t be the last time we post about ACW.